Updated: Mar 12
When I start a Fashion for the first time, it was Haut-Couture Brand not the fast fashion company. And I admired all hand-crafted works done by couturiers like embroidery, hand-stitch, pattern stamping, draping ... which Fast Fashion can not realization into the market due to the production cost.
and later on, when I had to deal with garment factory for the production, I realized that the industry uses so much of the artificial resources as well as polluting it in so many ways from making the fabric itself, to the production process, to transportation.
How we build up Sustainable Brand?
If you have a passion in Fashion, there's no doubt that you want to make your own Fashion Brand someday. I was same and I felt it was right time to start something on 2018 as I met really good production partner in Chiang-mai, Thailand. So, I was kept brainstorming for a brand, and finally I could conclude myself the brand that I want to make is Sustainable Fashion Brand.
First of all, I wanted to change Fabrics and the way of sourcing from factory side. I focused on natural fibers such as cotton, linen, hemp & silk that Nature gives us since ancient century. Second, I wanted to change garment process which is barely needed for making product. Third, reduce unnecessary transportation & try to use local ingredient. I was for sure that I could change these 3 things without huge efforts, so I kept these 3 changes in my mind and start to build up design and branding.
WEARLESSWEAR First Sample on 2018
I've been working in Korean Fashion industry almost 5 years and studied fashion in Esmod, The École supérieure des arts et techniques de la mode. After finish a fresh year, I started work right away in Haute-Couture Brand, Jardin de Chouette and it still remains as my biggest experience about Luxury Fashion. I could've touch and feel all the expensive fabrics from Italy, Japan, America and most of them was Silk or special Cotton.
Cotton is a plant hard to cultivate massively. It needs tons of water, sun-light and caring. But if you wear it, it gives you breezy, airy, light feeling with softness on skin. So, cotton clothes is expensive than Polyester fabric made by petrol of course. And our garments factory is specialized on sewing hand-crafted woven, hemp & cotton fabric and they source fabric themselves also from local community. If I couldn't find our factory in the middle of nowhere, I'd say it was difficult or impossible to start first step for building up this Brand.
Afterwards, I decide to move here to start WEARLESSWEAR that has good quality, comfortable and beautiful wearing in both side ; Manufacturing and Design. The more satisfying product is, the longer it last, buyers will buy less and I think that's one key as well to sustainability. This is diagram that how we change from normal garment process to our brand process, WEARLESSWEAR.
The manufacturing process is as crucial as material sourcing. We're working with a local factory in Nothern Thailad. They hire local workers and source their fabric from local store. They use sewing machine and hand-sewing, dye fabric themselves with local specialist. Under the house-production as if Couture brand is made by, they make slow fashion by hands not with big machine.
And our basic fabric, Gauze, is normally get through washing process in the last finish, but as I wanted to make harm-less production to Nature as much as possible, we remove this process for making Pajamas. We choose raw material from factory and make it double layer for durability and then dye fabric first before we cut & sew.
As we remove washing process after finishing garments, we could avoid water pollution. And when we dye fabric, we follow the natural way in washing & drying and using the bare minimum chemical to make color stayed on. We don't run many collections like others, we do only one basic collection and try to sell them all. All stocks are delivered to 1 location from factory for quality check. And for the last process is labeling on garments by our designers using stamp ; we have no Plastic Label.
While we start new design, we focus on local community first and check capacity of manufacturing. Then we start design with available fabric, accessories. This is also one of the key for sustainability process in order to remove 1 transit of Co2 footprint.
How we want to be
I want to show sustainability can be integrated with fashion. As we look back our ancestor's life, like primitive living style before industrial revolution, our garments were sewed by Tailors. We had to order to make a suit or dress 2 months in advance. We could wear these well-made clothes over the generations. This is the beginning of fashion industry that all Haute-Couture House had created but now this fact is neglected by Fast Fashion Business. As showing that it's possible to run a brand with small production & small collection, I want to set an example for other brands to follow and help them to reduce environmental footprint. And of course, we hope WEARLESSWEAR become a classic home-wear brand that you can wear, your parents wear and your kids wear.